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In search of the best steak in Bali

by Ross Ainsworth and Angus Adnam, 23 November 2017
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Beef Central’s intrepid southeast Asian correspondent Ross Ainsworth recently conducted an interesting consumer experiment: Seeking out the best restaurant steak available on the Indonesian resort island of Bali. Included were samples from quality boxed beef imports from Australia, as well as Australian cattle imported live, and fed and slaughtered in Indo. Some of the results may surprise readers…

 

 

A MAJOR travel blog recently crowned Bali as the world’s number one beach resort, and Indonesia (a proxy for Bali) remains among the most popular overseas travel destinations for Australians.

Having lived in Bali now for about 10 months, I disagree with the view that Bali is simply a ‘beach resort’. In my view, Bali is one of the world’s most exotic food, shopping and leisure destinations, that just happens to be surrounded by the ocean.

I place food first on this list of attractions as the number and variety of dining options is absolutely extraordinary, from street stalls to six-star hotel restaurants, from Balinese to Bulgarian, every taste is catered for. Including beef.

When a friend recently asked me where the best steak in Bali could be found, I had to reply that I didn’t know. This lack of knowledge about such an important part of eating needed to be remedied so I began my search – through word of mouth, the internet and finally by a visit to a selection of Bali’s most acclaimed beef restaurants.

An initial search of all restaurants selling steak produced well over 100 possible candidates. I then approached a number of long-term resident beef-eaters to help me narrow this huge list down to about 20 venues which offered a well-regarded steak experience.

With a personal tasting of each steak the only way to make a final judgment, I had to narrow the field down even further as tasting 20 steaks was just too daunting even for a keen beef consumer like me. I went back again to more personal recommendations combined with a visit to each of the possible destinations for a view of the restaurant and the menu.

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A comparison can only fairly be made of the same steak at each place so, with an Australian rib eye as the target steak, a further number were eliminated. I finally selected seven restaurants to be visited in the course of a week, so the comparisons would be fresh in my mind.

I then consulted a steak testing expert and modified their recommendations to fit the local situation. My old friend, Angus Adnam, a well-known livestock exporter and food lover joined me for the tasting experience. The results are presented below.

Click on table for a larger view

 

The overall winner was The Butchers Club Steakhouse, where their magnificent steak combined with exceptional extras (chips, sauces, salad) proved to be best eating experience (by a slim margin) as well as being great value for a 300gram, 35-day dry-aged Angus rib eye for A$35. And the coldest Bintang beer directly off the ice.

Butchers Club is located in Jl. Petitenget in one of the main Kerobokan dining areas.

The eating experience of this Butchers Club Rib Eye was exceptional.

The eating experience of this Butchers Club Rib Eye was exceptional.

 

If you like a bit of theatre when your dining out then “Fire” restaurant at the Six-Star W Hotel on the beach at Legian is the place for you. Prior to ordering you get a viewing of the rare steaks to assist with your choice (see below) as well as a selection of 18 different steak knives to choose from. And not bad value at $45 for the steak and the circus.

18 Steak knives for Angus to select from. Mind you, if you need any of these to cut the steak, then there is a serious problem. All seven steaks we consumed could have been cut with a butter knife.

 

Bamboo provided an excellent steak in a Kuta family restaurant environment and great value at AUD$28 for a 350g rib-eye cooked to perfection.

Hard Rock delivered a similar quality steak in a family atmosphere with a 280g rib eye for $38. Unfortunately the tap beer was sub-standard so this put a bit of a dampener on the overall experience.

Boy & Cow was a standout with an exceptional steak which we marked down a fraction due to the heavy application of seasoning which the US chef explained is a popular American style of presentation. In future (and I will certainly be going back to this one) I will simply ask that this seasoning be excluded. 280g of grainfed, dry-aged branded Angus for $38. Without the seasoning this steak would probably have been close to a dead heat with the Butchers Club.

The only disappointment was Barbacoa, a glorious restaurant environment, where the steak was sliced prior to serving which detracted from its appearance while reducing its juiciness and tenderness, although the product almost certainly started as a top steak off the grill.

The service at this venue was probably the best of the seven venues. We should qualify these comments by explaining that there are two Australian rib-eye’s on this menu, a “Charcoal Grilled Beef Rib Eye (Australian)  220g” for $25 and a “Charcoal Grilled Black Angus Beef Rib Eye (Australian) 450g” for $62. Given the amount of beef we were eating for the week, the 450 gram Black Angus just seemed a bit over the top both for our appetites and our budget.

The layout and decor at Barbacoa is stunning.

 

Metis is one of my favourite Five-Star restaurants in Bali but you get what you pay for so while the steak was outstanding (as was everything else) so is the price at $51.50 for 300g of grainfed rib-eye. The steak was very large and thin-cut, so perhaps a longfed animal.

Australian beef dominates

Australian beef dominates the upper end of the Bali steak offerings with all seven rib-eye steaks on our testing list “originating from Australia” although in quite a few cases the restaurant service staff are not aware of the origin – but will happily ask the chef if you are interested. Dry-Aging and Black Angus are very popular with Butchers Club and Boy & Cow prominently displaying their dry-aging cabinets allowing customers to inspect the beef and the process.

I made some inquiries after our tasting and discovered the specific origins of four of the seven steaks sampled.

  • Butchers Club: Killara Black Angus supplied by Elders Indonesia.
  • Boy and Cow: Blair Angus’s Kimberley Red exported and supplied by Signature Beef. (Editor’s note: this reference has been amended since first published. See reader’s comment below)
  • Bamboo: Elders Indonesia Kooyong Brand which is sourced from Australian Brahman X steers fattened in Sumatera and processed in Elders western abattoir in Bogor, Java.
  • Barbacoa: Elders Indonesia Kooyong as above.

I was unable to discover the origin, apart from the confirmation that it was from Australia, at Fire, Metis and Hard Rock.

While it was not unexpected that the branded Angus beef would came out on top, the real surprise for us was the performance of Elders Kooyong, which is from Australian Brahmans fattened and slaughtered in Indonesia. For this class of animal to be up there with the best steaks in town is quite an achievement. Some might argue that this is technically not Australian beef having been fattened and processed in Indonesia, but I disagree.

I have no argument with anyone who wishes to point out that the exercise above is biased, unrepresentative, unscientific etc. All true, as it was just not possible for me to do a proper technical trial with my resources.

What I can say however, without fear of contradiction, is that Bali is one of the great dining experiences to be found in a relatively tight space anywhere in the world. Come and conduct your own taste test, you won’t regret it regardless of your personal preferences.

We did not know that this steak was an Aussie Brahman until long after we finished the taste testing. If you are on a budget, but still want a seriously good steak, then Bamboo Bar and Grill in Kuta is the place for you.

 

 



Reader's Comments


Comment
  • Tess Camm, Signature Beef November 24, 2017

    Great to see the coverage on Australian beef in the article titled ‘In search of the best steak in Bali’, however it states ‘Boy and Cow: Blair Angus’s Kimberley Red supplied by Stockyard’ – this is incorrect, Kimberley Red is exclusively produced and exported to Indo with Signature Beef.

    Thanks for the correction, Tess – story now amended. It’s hard to get good help these days…. Editor

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